Baruntse is a substantial and symmetrical snow peak, has four ridges and four summits. It is bounded on the east by the Barun Glacier flowing north-south from Cho, to the north-west by the Imja glacier and the Hunku glacier forms the south-east boundary. The three main ridges of Baruntse are situated between these glaciers and form an upturned 'Y'running from Cho Polu (6695m) in the north past the Humni La, on to the north summit where it divides. Other well -known mountains in this area are Makalu, Lhotse, Chamlang, Everest and the trekking-peak Mera Peak. The mountain was first climbed May 30, 1954 via the south ridge by Colin Todd and Geoff Harrow of a New Zealand expedition.
The regular approach begins at Lukla and takes you across the Mera Peak trek up to Mera – La and then Hongu valley, one of the most fertile regions in Nepal, passing northward through a beautiful alpine environment. The walk passes through delightful Sherpa country and provides for excellent acclimatization. The Baruntse base camp is at an altitude of around 5250m. and sits near the pristine lakes below Amphu Lapcha pass. The route then follows a long ridge leading to the summit. We have designed the programs enclosed two camps above the base camp in Baruntse climbing. The camp (I) is set up just below East Col. at an altitude of 5,700m. and the camp (II) is on the South – East Ridge at a height of 6,420m. |